Authors note: My ASHI colleagues love this CD.  The Encyclopedia of Standard Paragraphs is a massive (6 MB) data base containing thousands of narrative text files pertaining to the most common problems observed by home inspectors. Writing this data base took over years to complete, and is a living and growing reference.   After each continuing education seminar, new text is added.  I select appropriate boiler-plated text files daily and quickly import them into a narrative home inspection report.

Files of boiler-plated text within the Encyclopedia are accessed by simply right clicking the mouse, typing a few letters to arrive at the alphabetical listing and then scrolling to the desired title.  The desired file can then be imported directly into your report wherever the cursor was left.  You can "tweak" the verbiage to fit the need, you can import graphic illustrations and color photographs to impress the reader.  You can even edit & save the boiler-plated text to suit your own style or geographical location. Novice inspectors enjoy just reading the text for continuing education.  Each CD order is accompanied with a 3-ring binder containing the complete list of paragraph titles.

I hope that you will enjoy reading the following random samples from the ENCYCLOPEDIA OF STANDARD PARAGRAPHS.  Feel free to copy and use them, for I know that once you do, you will want MORE!

Observation: The home has an electric powered split-system central air conditioning system.
Analysis: The two prime components of the system include the outside compressor unit and the evaporator unit located in the plenum above the furnace. (Notice: The outside compressor unit has an average ten year service life with proper maintenance.) Two refrigerant lines run between the compressor and evaporator. The larger line (vapor line) should always be insulated to maintain temperature and prevent it from sweating. A condensate drain line runs from the indoor evaporator to a drainage point. This drain line may be connected to a device called a condensate pump if the installation elevation requires lifting the condensate to an outside drain. The central air conditioning system shares the same duct distribution system, blower unit & filter, as the heating furnace to deliver cool conditioned air to the habitable rooms serviced by the system.

CARE & TROUBLE SHOOTING TIPS:

1. Monitor the outside compressor unit for levelness. The compressor may not function properly if tilted more than 5 degrees.

2. Keep shrubbery or vegetation several feet away from the compressor unit for proper cooling.

3. The air coming from the outside compressor unit should be slightly warmer than the ambient air temperature.

4. The cool air coming from the registers in each room should have a 15-18 degree F. differential as compared to the air at the return register. This indicates proper function.

5. If the supply & return temperature differential is 25 degrees F. or more, then it should be checked by a technician.

6. Keep male dogs away from the compressor as urine can rot out the cooling coils. Monitor the compressor for salt spray corrosion if the property is near the ocean.

7. Be careful not to bump the compressor cooling coils when mowing the lawn.

8. Monitor the insulation on the larger refrigerant line and replace as needed.

9. Monitor the end of the condensate drain line. It should drip water indicating proper function.

10. Monitor the plenum (large supply duct) at the furnace for signs of rust or leakage.

11. Keep the evaporator coil unit within the furnace plenum clean by replacing or cleaning the furnace filter monthly.

12. Cover the outside compressor unit when shut-down for the winter, and shut-off the electrical disconnect next to the compressor.

13. Have the entire central air conditioning system inspected and serviced annually by a licensed HVAC technician.

Observation: CENTRAL AIR CONDITION SYSTEM WORKING POORLY - the home has an electric split-system central air conditioning system. As observed at time of inspection, the system was operational but performed poorly. It responded to thermostatic controls, but the temperature differential between supply and return air was inadequate.
Analysis: A properly functioning system should produce a temperature differential between supply & return air of 15-18 degrees F. Usually, this condition indicates a loss of refrigerant, postponed maintenance or an appliance nearing end of service life. The numerous connections between fittings on the refrigerant pipes can loosen or develop cracks that allow refrigerant gas to escape. Notice: Be advised that the typical service life of the compressor unit is 10-12 years with appropriate maintenance. You should verify the exact age of the central air conditioning system with the owner and ask when the system was last professionally serviced. Refrigerant levels and all components should be inspected and serviced as needed annually by a professional HVAC contractor. The filter should be cleaned weekly during the cooling season.
Recommendation: I recommend that you ask an HVAC repairman to reappraise the system prior to purchase and to provide estimates for repairs as required to restore proper temperature differentials.

Observation: The home has a continuous feed model garbage disposer beneath the kitchen sink that is electrically powered and discharges into the sink trap. The disposer may also have a stub-out connection near the top side where the dishwasher drain connects. A garbage disposer is a handy positive feature in any home, provided the waste disposal system is connected to a public sewer line. If a private waste disposal system is present, then a disposer is frowned upon as the solids discharged into such a system may over-burden capacity and cause back-ups. Private waste disposal systems should be larger in size if a garbage disposer is utilized. Ask the owner if the instruction manual is still available.

CARE AND USE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove the sink stopper.

2. Turn on the cold water to a good steady flow & leave it on during complete disposer operation. Failure to turn the water on before turning on the disposer can result in blockages.

3. Turn the electrical switch (usually on the wall) to the on position and slowly feed food waste into the disposer while it is running. (Note: Avoid bones, fruit pits and fibrous material like corn husks.)

4. To prevent drain line blockages, allow the water to run a minimum of 15 seconds after grinding to flush all waste away.

5. Replace the sink stopper.

TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEMS: (Notice: Avoid personal injury.)

1. Odors - odors are usually the result of a failure to properly flush the disposer after grinding. Small bits of food remain and cause the odors. Flush the disposer with a near boiling solution of 3 to 4 cups of water mixed with 1/2 cup of mixed-in and dissolved baking soda.

2. Stains inside - normal surface discoloration only.

3. Loud noises - metal accidentally dropped inside disposer. Turn off disposer and investigate by reaching inside with tongs.

4. Motor stops - over-loaded disposer. Shut it off. Clear obstructions with tongs. (Some models use a self-service wrench to free obstructions. The wrench is placed in the center hole at the bottom of the disposer and worked back and forth. Remove the wrench. Wait 3-4 minutes for motor to cool. With the wall switch in the off position, push the small red re-set button on bottom of disposer. If still inoperative, check electrical service panel.

5. Water drains slowly - clogged drain or trap needs cleaning with a drain auger. Note: A clogged drain may cause food waste to back-up into the dishwasher.

Observation: At time of inspection, the owner's storage was extensive throughout the basement and especially along the basement walls.
Analysis: As the basement was extensively full of storage, all conditions may not be reportable and hidden defects may exist. DISCLAIMER: INSPECTORS ARE NOT REQUIRED TO MOVE STORED GOODS. THE INSPECTION IS LIMITED TO WHAT IS VISIBLE AND READILY ACCESSIBLE AT TIME OF INSPECTION ONLY.
Recommendation: You should re-inspect the basement during a pre-passing walk through. If unreported defects arise, please call this office for further consultation or optional return visit.

Observation: There are exterior drainage problems (such as the negative grading near the foundation, faulty downspout discharge or other areas) that direct water towards the foundation or cause water to linger near the foundation.
Analysis: Be advised that the water may soak into the ground, making the basement vulnerable to water infiltration. Even though the owner did not disclose any past problems and the basement may be dry at this time, torrential rains or rapid snow melting may increase the water table near the foundation in quantities sufficient to overcome resistance to leakage. Water that sinks into the soil near the foundation builds up hydrostatic pressure which can leak through the smallest cracks in the foundation or through the joint where the foundation walls and floor meet.
Recommendation: While not a guarantee, I advise that exterior drainage control measures be employed as required to direct all surface water and roof run-off away from the home on all sides to minimize the risk of future wet basement problems. A landscape contractor or landscape architect can reappraise the lot and provide detailed recommendations & cost estimates as needed to correct the drainage. Prior to commitment, you should ask the owner to disclose any past wet basement problems.

Observation: The sub-flooring beneath the bathroom floor covering exhibited signs of suspected hidden decay.
Analysis: Decayed bathroom sub-flooring or floor frame problems are often observed near leaky toilets or showers. As the bathroom sub-floor and floor frame are not readily accessible for inspection, the true extend of needed carpentry repair is undetermined. Further investigation is needed as there is a potential for concealed decay or mold.
Recommendation: In my opinion, the floor covering should first be removed for closer inspection of the suspected areas of decay, then repairs should be done in accordance with the requirements of the building and plumbing codes. It may be necessary to remove bathroom fixtures to perform repairs. To further research the cost of repair, I advise that you first request a carpenter to reappraise the area of concern, followed by a plumber if recommended by the carpenter. 

Observation: The older bathroom outlet lacks a modern ground-fault-circuit-interrupter (GFCI) protection.
Analysis: New bathrooms are now required to have a 20-amp circuit leading to a GFCI protected U-type outlet within three feet of the sink. A bathroom is considered to be a water hazard area that can pose deadly shock hazards.  Be advised that by modern comparison, the outlet is UNSAFE.  URGENT upgrading is advised.
Recommendation: In my opinion, while the lack of a GFCI protected outlet may be typical for the age of the home and no repairs are required unless remodeling takes place, I still recommend GFCI upgrading for the electrical safety of the occupants. Upgrading the safety of the bathroom outlet is relatively inexpensive and could very well save a life. At your option, I urge you to consult an electrician for estimates on providing GFCI shock protection for all water hazard areas not so protected.

Observation: Probing & sounding of the untreated wood sills supporting the bulkhead or at the basement entry revealed extensive decay.
Analysis: While this is a very common defect in a home, it does indicate that the sills have been overly exposed to moisture and that the moisture may have attracted potential wood boring insects. Notice: Repair of decayed wood sills will require the demolition of the lower bulkhead or entry components and replacement using treated lumber.
Recommendation: You should ask a carpenter can provide estimates for repairs as required to restore function. Lastly, due to the nature of the decayed sills and their proximity to the soil, I recommend that the entire property be inspected by a licensed pest control company prior to commitment.

Observation: Whitish colored stains are visible on the face of the chimney.
Analysis: Efflorescence usually means that water has entered the chimney at the top and filtered downward through the brick. During the moisture migration, minerals within the brick dissolve and are left on the surface of the brick as the moisture evaporates. The stains can be removed with a diluted solution of muriatic acid per manufacturers safety instructions. I suspect that the top mortar wash needs repair to deflect water away from the chimney opening. The mortar wash is a sacrificial layer of cement at the top of the chimney that is vulnerable to cracking and deterioration due to exposure to the elements. Periodic mortar wash restoration is necessary.  DISCLAIMER:  CONDITIONS WITHIN THE INTERIOR OF THE CHIMNEY ARE UNDETERMINED AS THE INTERIOR IS NOT READILY ACCESSIBLE FOR INSPECTION.  THERE IS A POTENTIAL FOR CONCEALED DAMAGE.
Recommendation: I advise that a mason be asked to perform an on-roof Level II inspection to evaluate the top and interior of the chimney, and to perform any repairs determined.  An optional metal rain cap may also protect the chimney from water intrusion.

Observation: The home has a crawl space present.
Analysis: A crawl space is frequently constructed in place of a full basement to reduce the over-all cost of construction. There is nothing wrong with a crawl space provided it's special characteristics are recognized and responsibly monitored. All areas within the crawl space may not have been inspected due to obstructions, low clearance or hazards to the inspector. Firstly, the ground under the crawl space should be covered with a plastic vapor barrier to retard the migration of moisture from the ground into the space. Next, the crawl space should have at least two screened openings to allow moisture to ventilate (1 sq. ft. of vent area for each 1500 sq. ft. of crawl space). Without proper vapor retarders and ventilation, humidity may promote mold, mildew, fungus, decay, insect infestation and may be a respiratory irritant to the occupants within the living spaces above. The crawl space should have an entry hatch measuring a minimum 18 inches by 24 inches to allow entry for annual inspection. Untreated wood should not be in direct soil contact - a minimum 18 inch clearance from soil to joists is advised and minimum 12 inch clearance between the soil and untreated girders. The use of treated lumber within a crawl space is preferable to untreated material. If proper clearances do not exist, you may desire to do limited excavation to improve clearances and to install floor hatches for further investigation. The crawl space should not contain debris or organic material which may promote pest activity. Lastly, crawl spaces are usually unheated. Therefore, winterization of the crawl space is advised as follows: The floor frame should be insulated with a minimum of 3 1/2 inches of batt-type fiberglass insulation with a vapor retarder facing the conditioned space above. Furthermore, water pipes and heating pipes and ducts should be insulated to prevent freeze-ups and heat loss.

Observation: The header joist under the deck is missing lag bolts.
Analysis: **** UNSAFE - spaced and staggered lag bolts with washers beneath the heads are needed to secure the deck frame to the building.  Without proper attachment, the deck may collapse and cause personal injury and property damage.  URGENT repair is needed.
Recommendation: For safety, I advise that hire a carpenter NOW, to install all missing hardware in accordance with the requirements of the building code.

Observation: As seen beneath the kitchen sink, an uphill loop or an air gap is missing in the dishwasher drain hose.
Analysis: The purpose of the air gap is to prevent back-siphonage between the sink and dishwasher.  Simple repair is needed.
Recommendation: If there is enough slack in the drain hose, an air gap can easily be created by elevating the hose beneath the countertop creating an upside down "U". A simple plastic zip-tie can be installed to hold the drain hose at an elevation higher than the drain connection it empties into.

Observation: Inspection of an insulated glass sliding exterior door revealed that the glass door is cloudy or foggy in appearance.
Analysis: This is a common defect known as "failed insulating seals." Moisture has entered between the panes of glass and condensed causing the cloudy appearance. While the door will still open and close, the glass will remain cloudy and streaked with moisture between the panes of glass. Be advised that correction of this problem requires glass replacement.
Recommendation: I advise that you hire a glass company to provide estimates for the replacement of all glass panels with failed seals.

Observation: Low or negative drainage areas were observed along the perimeter of the foundation.
Analysis: Be advised that such low drainage areas will retain both surface water and roof run-off in concentrations that may soak into the ground and infiltrate the basement or crawl space causing dampness, wet basement problems, water damage or mold.  Negative soil grade problems near the foundation should NOT be taken lightly as they can cause great disappointment with home ownership and damage may NOT be covered by home owner's insurance.  Be advised that drainage corrections are needed and may involve significant expense.
Recommendation: Landscaping corrections are needed to establish a positive drainage grade for the dispersal of water away from the home by gravity flow. Such grading corrections can be done by a do-it-yourselfer or you may elect to ask a landscaping contractor or an engineer to further evaluate the lot and provide estimates for drainage improvements. I recommend that the ground immediately adjacent to the foundation be sloped away from the building at a slope not less than 1:12 for a distance of not less than eight (8) feet.

Observation: There are visible unplugged openings in the electrical service panel.
Analysis: **** UNSAFE, there is a potential for electrical shock.  Apparently the fuses or breakers or wires entering the service panel were altered without closing up the old holes in the metal box. While important in terms of safety, repairs are very inexpensive as plastic blanks are available to fill the unused holes.
Recommendation: Consult an electrician for simple but urgent repairs.

Observation: The main panel cover was removed revealing that the electrical service wires to the home are aluminum and that the ends of the wires are not coated with an anti-oxidant paste.
Analysis: While a copper service is preferable, aluminum is perfectly acceptable for service needs provided the wires are protected from oxidation. Oxidation can cause heat.
Recommendation: While the requirement to coat the ends of the aluminum service wires is considered good workmanship, and any omission may be pre-existing, I still recommend that you hire an electrician to perform this simple safety upgrade at minimal expense.

Observation: As the gas burner of the forced hot air furnace cycled on, flames rolled out of the fire chamber. The flames were scorching the face of the furnace outside of and above the fire chamber.
Analysis: **** UNSAFE, this is a FIRE HAZARD.  URGENT repair is needed NOW.
Recommendation: I advise that a licensed HVAC contractor reappraise the furnace to determine the cause of the flame roll out and to perform safety repairs as required to restore proper function.

Observation: The home is heated by a very old but functional boiler.
Analysis: In my opinion, while the old heating boiler is functional, it is also fully depreciated or has exceeded  it's design life. Continued parts replacement and possible breakdown should be expected during the remaining life of the old system.
Recommendation: You should have the heating system cleaned & tuned up as soon as you move into the home and annually thereafter. In addition to the above maintenance, I advise that each component and control be reappraised by a HVAC technician to further predict needed replacement of old parts before they become problematic. Lastly, I highly recommend that you seek estimates for budgeted boiler age replacement as available new technology is much more fuel efficient, requires less maintenance and offers greater comfort. A new heating system will also increase the market value of the home. I urge you to complete this research prior to commitment so that you have all the facts necessary for intelligent decision making.

Observation: Black colored roofing cement or roofing tar has been applied over the metal flashing at the roof / chimney intersection.
Analysis: Due to the roofing cement, the flashing beneath was NOT readily accessible for evaluation. True flashing conditions at the chimney / roof intersection are undetermined. Be advised that a properly flashed roof penetration should not need to be coated with roofing cement. The tar may have been installed as preventative maintenance or to seal a flashing leak. While the area may not be leaking at this time, it does appear potentially problematic.
Recommendation: YOU should ask the owner to disclose any known roof or flashing leakage problems NOW, prior to commitment. I advise that the area be monitored for leakage and that the tar be re-applied every year as it will degrade from exposure and unequal coefficients of expansion between dissimilar materials. If signs of leakage are discovered, then a roofer should be consulted to reappraise and repair the flashing around the chimney.

Observation: The older home still has areas of the original (non-ferrous or not magnetic) brass water piping as viewed in the unfinished areas.
Analysis: This older piping may be yellow brass (20-40 year design life) or longer lasting red brass (50-60 year design life). The old piping may still be present inside walls leading to bathroom or kitchen plumbing fixtures and can easily be recognized by threaded fittings. While the piping has an original long life expectancy, it is now a prime candidate for age replacement as it may be problematic. The brass piping tends to develop whitish pitted signs of corrosion on the underside caused by leaching zinc. Notice: The old brass water pipes are very brittle and may leak or cause interior damage - they should be closely monitored. The old water pipes are fully depreciated.
Recommendation: While the old water pipes may be serviceable, for security I advise that you ask a plumber to provide estimates for the replacement of the old pipes with modern copper pipes.

Observation: The concrete retaining wall has no visible weep holes.
Analysis: Weep holes are holes near the base of the retaining wall that allow moisture to escape from behind the wall relieving lateral pressure. Missing or blocked drainage may cause frost heave action which may cause the retaining wall to eventually tilt or crack.
Recommendation: The installation of weep holes is advised.

Observation: As viewed from on the roof, more than 1/3 of the asphalt / fiberglass roofing covering exhibits aged or deteriorated conditions including:

          Brittle shingles

          Worn granules

          Missing shingles

          Eroded and perforated vertical slots between shingle tabs
Analysis: In my opinion, due to the extent of deterioration, total re-roofing is recommended at significant expense. Repairs do not appear economically justifiable. Be advised that there is a risk of leakage and interior water damage.
Recommendation: I advise that you ask a licensed & insured roofer to reappraise the roof NOW, and to provide estimates for complete replacement prior to commitment. In my opinion, stripping a roof (as opposed to re-roofing over existing shingles) provides an opportunity for inspection & repair of the roof decking & attic ventilation system, plus stripping provides a better quality new roof. Be advised that multiple roofing layers place excessive loads on the roof structure and are less resistant to blow-off problems. Re-roofing over the existing roof covering may telegraph any imperfections in the old roof materials through to the new roof.

ONE PIPE STEAM HEATING SYSTEM GENERAL EXPLANATION: The central heating system in this home consist of a steam system (1905-1945 = steam era). Many older homes still utilize a steam heating system, but generally speaking, steam systems are no longer being installed in new homes due the advances in modern technology. The presence of a steam boiler should not dissuade you from purchasing the home, but you should fully understand it's function, it's disadvantages and your maintenance responsibilities.

The following is a brief discussion of steam system basic operation and maintenance, explained in simple layman's terms. The discussion is not inclusive of every valve, gage, configuration or control. A steam boiler can be constructed of steel or cast iron and may also be classified as a wet or dry boiler. For your reference, a steel boiler has a 15-20 year design life and a cast iron boiler has a 30-40 year design life. A wet boiler is more desirable as the return piping enters the boiler at a low elevation and the firebox is surrounded by a heat exchanger containing water for more rapid heat transfer. Conversely, a dry boiler is not really dry, but the return piping enters at a higher elevation and there is no water below the firebox.

Think of the boiler as a tea kettle resting on a gas or oil burner. The boiler is only 1/2 full of water. When the thermostat calls for heat, the burner ignites the fuel within a fire chamber and the heat of combustion is transferred to the steel or cast iron heat exchanger. One of the disadvantages of a steam system is the slow response time to heat when desired. The water inside the kettle or heat exchanger takes a long time to heat up to steam temperature and sufficient steam under pressure to fill the entire system.

Once adequate steam is available it rises upward through large diameter header and riser pipes toward the radiators. The large pipes should always have a slight uphill pitch and should always be insulated to maintain steam temperature and pressure. The large steam pipes also work as return pipes for condensate to flow back to the boiler by gravity. Large steam pipes taking up head room in a basement are another disadvantage of a steam system.

While traveling forward, the steam forces air from the piping and radiators. The air is forced out via air vent valves located high at the far end of each radiator. When properly functioning, the air vent valves should produce a hissing sound which should suddenly stop when steam reaches the valve. If the air vent valve discharges steam, then the valve needs maintenance cleaning or replacement.

Most air vent valves have a small numbered dial at the base of the valve for regulating the rate of air displacement and thus balancing the steam system. Ideally, each radiator should start getting hot at about the same time if the system is balanced properly. Some experimentation is required to balance a steam system, but generally the radiator furthest from the boiler should have it's air vent fully open while others closer to the boiler should be correspondingly reduced for slower air movement. In other words, the faster the air escapes, the faster the radiator gets hot. If a radiator fails to heat up, then the air vent may be clogged or frozen closed and requires replacement.

A control valve is provided at each radiator and should always be kept fully open for heat or completely closed if no heat is desired in a room. The control valve should never be throttled down. Any bubbling at the valve indicates failing packing in need of maintenance replacement. New thermostatically controlled radiator valves are now available to simulate zoned heating with a steam system. You may elect to discuss upgrading to these new type of valves with your heating contractor.

Steam radiators are constructed of cast iron and can be configured as low as baseboard heaters, to low or high radiators. Large unsightly radiators that restrict furniture placement and produce hot and cold spots in a room are another disadvantage of a steam system. Also, a steam radiator can easily scald a child in the child accidentally contacts a hot radiator.

Each loop in the cast iron radiator is called a foot and is used to properly size the radiator to heat the room it is installed in. A properly installed radiator will be placed along an outside wall and will have a slight downhill pitch toward the boiler for condensate flow. Radiators are best left with the manufacturer's finish only and should not be painted. Paint only reduces the rate of heat transfer to the room. (Note: Radiators have great re-sale value and should be salvaged during any remodeling.)

Once the thermostat has been satisfied, the burner stops and the system begins to cool down. The steam within the radiators changes state from steam to water called condensate. The condensate flows down-hill from the radiators, through the same riser and header pipes to the boiler for re-use. Theoretically, no water should ever be lost, but practically speaking, some steam escapes from valves and vents requiring you to add more water to the kettle when needed.

On the side of the boiler, there is a glass tube called a sight glass which is used to tell the water level in the boiler. The water level should always be kept at the 1/2 full level to prevent the boiler from burning out and to provide room within the boiler for a head of steam. The need for the owner to check and add water weekly is another disadvantage of an old steam system. (Note: This maintenance responsibility can be avoided by the installation of an automatic fill-valve.)

To add water to the boiler, locate the lowest pipe connecting to the rear of the boiler and follow it upwards until a valve is encountered. This is the fill valve. Whenever it is necessary to add water to the boiler, the fill valve should be opened slightly introducing a slow amount of fresh cold water to the boiler. The fill valve should be closed as soon as the sight glass measures 1/2 full. (Note: Failure to close the fill valve will flood the entire steam system and may cause leakage and interior water damage.)

Another owner responsibility is maintenance of the low-water cutoff valve. It is usually located externally on the side of the boiler as a large bulbous valve with a valve handle and an open ended drain pipe. The low-water cutoff valve is a control that shuts down the burner to prevent damage to the boiler should the water level drop below the design level. Within the valve is a float just similar to that within a toilet tank. As the steam condenses and flows back to the boiler for re-heating, it picks up sludge from the radiators and piping and carries it to the boiler. Some of the sludge settles inside the low-water cutoff valve and may impede float operation if not removed weekly. Weekly, the owner should place an empty bucket beneath the drain of the low-water cutoff valve and open the valve. Dirty, sludge filled water should run out of the drain pipe. Let the water drain until it becomes cleaner in appearance. Discard the dirty water. Next, open the fill valve and re-fill the boiler until the sight glass measures 1/2 full. (Note: Flushing the low-water cutoff valve when the burner is operating may cause the burner to shut-down. This is normal and is a good safety test. The burner should re-start when proper water level is restored.) Some low-water cutoff valves are mounted internally in the boiler and require no owner maintenance, but also can not be conveniently tested.

Disadvantages of steam: Large piping. Occasional noises. Slow response time. Unsteady heat. Hot and cold spots. Scalding dangers. Difficulty in zoning building. Large radiators. Furniture placement restricted. Required owner maintenance.

OWNER MAINTENANCE RESPONSIBILITIES: Annual inspection, cleaning & tune-up by professional technician. Check air vent valves for proper opening & closing. Check radiator valves for leaks. Keep all radiators & piping pitched toward boiler. Maintain insulation of all piping. Check sight glass for 1/2 full water level. Add make-up water using fill valve as needed. Drain low-water cutoff valve weekly. Teach children to stay away from hot radiators. Monitor entire system for leaks.

Observation: Inspection of readily accessible portions of the concrete foundation revealed thin hairline vertical cracks.
Analysis: In my opinion, such cracks are called "shrinkage cracks" and are common with concrete foundations.  Hairline shrinkage cracks generally pose no significant problem in terms of reduction in load bearing capacity, as the foundation carries the load in a vertical direction. Shrinkage cracks usually occur shortly after construction of within the first 1-2 years of the home. The shrinkage cracks are caused by the introduction of excessive water during the mixing or pouring of the concrete.
Recommendation: Shrinkage cracks should be sealed to prevent water infiltration, radon gas entry and possible wood boring insect access. My recommendations for repair include sealing the cracks from the outside and the inside. This will require a certain degree of excavation, but will insure that both sides of the crack are sealed. Professional epoxy injection service companies can be hired to repair foundation cracks with a long lasting sealant, or you can seal the cracks yourself with a hydraulic cement product or suitable caulk. Once repaired, the cracks should be monitored for unpredictable future movement.

Observation: The temperature / pressure relief valve at the hot water heater is missing a required 3/4 inch dia. discharge pipe extending to within approximately 12 inches of the floor.
Analysis: **** UNSAFE, this is an unsafe condition as super-heated hot water discharged from the valve could cause personal injury to anyone near the tank. URGENT but simple repair is needed.
Recommendation: Hire a plumber to install the missing discharge pipe NOW.

Observation: A representative sample (one / room) of windows were examined. The windows are aged, loose, lack modern weatherstripping and lack a tight fit at the meeting rails and stops.
Analysis: In my opinion, the old windows are nearing end of serviceable life. Air leakage or drafts are probable due to the age of the windows and their condition. Options include performing all maintenance repairs and weatherstripping updating as required to reduce air leakage. Or, consider updating by adding insulated replacement units. The energy efficiency of older windows can be updated by adding inexpensive vinyl V-seal above and below the sash and at the meeting rails. Old sash cord & pulley mechanisms can be updated by installing replacement friction fit balances. In other words, old windows can be made more energy efficient, but you still are left with old windows that lack modern design features. Optional updating to modern insulated replacement windows is not required, but will greatly improve the energy efficiency of the home. New windows will improve your comfort, reduce maintenance and they will increase the market value of the home. Imagine tilting the windows in for easy cleaning and no old storm widows to deal with. Such updating will represent a significant expense, but pay back will be partly offset by fuel savings.
Recommendation: I advise that you consult with several window replacement or fenestration contractors and seek estimates for the installation of new insulated replacement windows.

Observation: As seen with my head through the attic hatch, the readily accessible parts of the attic exhibited signs of active frost on the nails that penetrate the roof decking on the north side of the home.

Analysis:  In my opinion, the frost is an indication that the home has a moisture / ventilation imbalance.  I suspect that moisture is escaping from the living spaces into the attic where it condenses on the cooler north side of the attic, resulting in the frost as described above.  Be advised that if the source of this problem is not further identified and corrected, long-term continuation could result in mold and / or decay of the roof structure.

Recommendation:  You should play detective and try to identify problems with the attic ventilation system, the moisture generators (people, cooking, bathing, laundry, heating, etc.) and the insulation and vapor barriers in the home.  Your objective should be to keep the attic cool and well ventilated while retarding heat loss from the living space and moisture migration into the attic.

 Starting with the ventilation system, a modern ridge vent system is best for passive ventilation of the attic space, but there are often problems that prevent its proper function.  Check that a 1-inch slot was properly cut on each side of the ridge board, that continuous soffit vents are present, that the soffit vents are not blocked by insulation at the eves, etc.  If a ridge vent has been added as an upgrade, then any prior louver vents at the gable ends of the home should be sealed or they will degrade air movement and ridge vent function.

 As for moisture generators, make sure that the bathroom fan, the dryer and all other sources of moisture discharge outside and NOT into the attic.  Think of the home as one big Christmas present that needs to be wrapped in insulation plus a continuous vapor barrier surrounding the living spaces only.  Any openings in the insulation and vapor barrier will allow moisture to migrate to the attic, as the attic is under lower pressure than the living spaces.  When the amount of moisture within the attic exceeds the ability of the home to safely ventilate the moisture, an imbalance occurs; resulting in high moisture content in the roof frame and the attic atmosphere.  Typical problem areas to further investigate include:

• Bathroom exhaust fans that discharge into the attic.

• Attic hatch openings that lack insulation and weatherstripping.

• Folding attic stairs that lack insulation and weatherstripping.

• Recessed light fixtures that lack insulation.

• Plumbing vent chases that lack insulation.

• Failure to ventilate the bathroom during shower use.

• Chimney chases that lack firestopping.

• Balloon framed walls that lack firestopping.

• Missing attic insulation.

• Voids in the attic insulation.

• Damaged, disturbed or missing vapor barriers in the attic, knee walls, basement, floor frame, walls and crawl spaces.

• The lack of a dehumidifier in the basement.

I advise that you investigate the home and identify and correct any of the above listed deficiencies, and that you monitor the attic space to determine if your efforts corrected the attic ventilation / moisture imbalance.  If you are not capable of performing the above investigations and corrections, then I advise that you hire an insulation / ventilation specialist to help as elected.

Observation:  As seen where readily accessible above grade and from the basement, a thin hairline crack is visible in the left side of the concrete foundation.

Analysis:  In my opinion, such thin cracks are not of a critical nature and are typically categorized as “shrinkage cracks” caused by the introduction of water during the mixing and pouring of the concrete.  Cracks of this type usually occur during the first year of construction and pose no significant risk to the structure.  Be advised that hairline cracks are still candidates for low priority repairs as they pose a risk of allowing water infiltration, radon gas entry or inspect access.  There is a potential that additional cracks may exist behind storage in the basement or finished surfaces.

Recommendation:  I advise that you hire a professional concrete repair company to fix all foundation cracks by epoxy injection and that you seek a written warranty.  Once repaired, the cracks should be monitored for unpredictable future movement as cracks are time related.

Observation:  A white colored mineral insulation was observed on heating pipes in the readily accessible portions of the unfinished basement.

Analysis:  DISCLAIMER:  THE IDENTIFICATION OF ASBESTOS IS EXCLUDED FROM THIS REPORT PER CONTRACT, AS IT REQUIRES MICROSCOPIC EXAMINATION THAT IS BEYOND THE SCOPE OF THIS LIMITED VISUAL HOME INSPECTION.  If the material is asbestos and is damaged, the fibers can be released and can mix with the dust and remain in the basement area for an indefinite period of time. In most cases the type of material observed on heating pipes such as these is identified as containing asbestos. The Environmental Protection Agency (E.P.A.) reports that asbestos represents a health hazard if "friable" (damaged, crumbling, or in any state that allows the release of fibers). Further guidance is available from the Environmental Protection Agency (E.P.A.).  Due to the age of construction, there may be other materials within the home that contain asbestos but are not identified by this inspection report. If asbestos fibers are inhaled or swallowed, they can have serious effects on your health, which may not appear until 15 or more years later. Asbestos can cause asbestosis, a scarring of the lungs that leads to breathing problems and heart failure. It can also cause cancer of the lungs and mesothelioma, a rare cancer of the chest or abdomen lining. Special regulations exist for the removal and disposal of asbestos.

Recommendation:  The Company recommends that the Client obtain the booklet "Asbestos in the Home" published by the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission.  The EPA # is 800-368-5888  http://www.epa.gov/iaq/asbestos.html

Prior to commitment, you should ask a licensed asbestos abatement contractor to make a precise determination of the suspected asbestos materials, and to provide removal estimates if applicable.  Be advised that professional removal and disposal of asbestos materials can quickly involve significant expense. Additional asbestos-containing materials may be present in materials that are currently covered by newer finish materials.  If you are considering renovation of the structure, then you become familiar with the asbestos issue.   Please see related information available through the U.S. EPA.

GENERAL INFORMATION ON ASBESTOS:

WHAT IS ASBESTOS?  Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral that is mined from rocks and has valuable insulating and fire resistant qualities.

WHY IS ASBESTOS IN THE HOME A CONCERN?  Asbestos fibers can cause cancer if inhaled.  The Consumer Products Safety Commission (CPSC) banned the sale of consumer patching compounds that contain asbestos in 1978.  The CPSC has maintained that asbestos fibers released from consumer products may pose unique problems for households.  The household environment may harbor asbestos fibers for long periods which repeatedly recirculate after they have settled to the surface.

     Asbestos is a health risk when the product is soft, torn, crumbling or when the asbestos fibers are released from the material to the air that people breathe.  Such a condition is called "friable" or capable of becoming air born.  There is no safe exposure level to friable asbestos fibers.  The fibers are so tiny that they can not be seen without a microscope, and once inhaled they stay in the lungs for many years causing future mesothelioma.  The asbestos fibers are resistant to natural degradation.

WHERE IS ASBESTOS LIKELY TO BE FOUND IN THE HOME?  Usually only older homes have or once may have had asbestos materials.  The asbestos is most often associated with insulation on old steam boilers & steam pipes, fireshields, asbestos cement siding, asbestos cement roofing shingles, old floor tiles, wall board, stove gaskets and furnace insulation.

HOW CAN ASBESTOS BE IDENTIFIED?  True asbestos identification can only be done by microscopic examination and should be done by licensed professionals.  The home inspector can NOT visually identify asbestos with certainty and such inspection is EXCLUDED from this report.  If asbestos is suspected on the property, then you should ask a licensed asbestos contractor to reappraise the areas of concern prior to commitment, requesting a site evaluation and estimate for removal of asbestos if present.

IS ASBESTOS REMOVAL COSTLY?  Yes!  Even small amounts of asbestos can be very costly to have removed and properly disposed of at EPA approved sites.  Asbestos removal should only be done by licensed asbestos abatement contractors who follow EPA & OSHA regulations.  Such experts take enormous steps to protect themselves, the site and the environment from contamination.

IF ASBESTOS IS PRESENT, WHAT OPTIONS ARE POSSIBLE? 

     1.  Enclosure - constructing an air tight barrier around the asbestos.

     2.  Encapsulation - wrapping the asbestos material with EPA approved

          materials.

     3.  Removal - following EPA & OSHA regulations.

SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION:

 1.  Consumer Products Safety Commission 800-638-CPSC

 2.  Mass. Cancer Information Service 800-952-7420

 3.  Mass. Dept. of Public Health 617-727-2660

 4.  EPA Region 1, Asbestos Coordinator's Office

     Air & Hazardous Materials Division 617-223-0585

Observation:  The flat roof does not appear to have a “positive pitch.”  This problem was evidenced by:

            [x] Evaporation rings on the flat roof

            [x] Ponding water on the flat roof

            [x] Sagging in the flat roof structure

Analysis:  The National Roofing and Waterproofing Manual, Fifth Edition (NRCA) “recommends all roofs be designed and built to have positive drainage.  NRCA defines positive drainage as the drainage condition in which consideration has been made during design for all loading deflections of a deck, and additional roof slope has been provided to ensure drainage of a roof area within 48 hours following rainfall under conditions conducive to drying.”

            Providing proper slope to aid in timely drainage is an important consideration when designing and installing, low-slope membrane roof assemblies for the following reasons:

·        Ponding water is detrimental to most low-slope roof membranes

·        Ponding water will result in premature roof surfacing and membrane deterioration

·        Ponding water can cause deck deflection and structural deformations

·        Ponding water can cause ice formation resulting in membrane degradation or damage tensile splitting.

·        Ponding water makes repairs difficult in the event of leakage into the building

·        Debris accumulation

·        Vegetation & fungal growth can result in membrane deterioration

Recommendation:  You should ask if engineering documentation is available proving that the roof structure has been designed to ensure adequate stiffness to preclude progressive deflection (instability) during snow or rain loads.  If no such documentation is available, then you should consider hiring a structural engineer to further investigate the building and to design specifications for correction in accordance with the requirements of the building code.  Consult a tradesman for a bid on the cost of renovations and be advised that significant expenses may be involved that warrant your research prior to commitment.

Observation:  As viewed from the basement, there is an open “chase” in the floor frame at the following location(s):

     [  ] Below the bathtub

     [  ] Adjacent to plumbing waste or vent pipes

     [  ] Adjacent to pipes

     [  ] At an abandoned heating duct

     [  ] At an open floor register with no duct

     [  ] At an abandoned opening in the subfloor

     [  ] At a laundry chute

     [  ] At the sill / exterior wall area

Analysis:  **** UNSAFE – this is a FIRE HAZARD.  URGENT but simple repair is needed.  An open chase is an opening in the floor frame that may allow the rapid spread of fire from the basement to other parts of the home.  Fire will actually chase the draft upward.  Open chases are often found next to chimneys, at plumbing vent pipes, at abandoned heating ducts, floor registers and other areas where the floor frame has been altered and abandoned.  Obsolete balloon framing is notorious for having open chases in the exterior walls extending from basement to roof.

Recommendation:  For fire safety, I advise that all open chases be sealed off with appropriate firestopping.

Observation:  Fixed skirting along the edges of the deck or porch prevented the inspector from entering the crawl space beneath the structure.

Analysis:  As the crawl space was NOT readily accessible and was NOT entered, conditions beneath the structure are undetermined.  There is a potential for concealed problems; further investigation is needed.

Recommendation:  I advise that an access hatch to the space be installed for inspection, maintenance and repair purposes.  You should inspect the space beneath the deck or porch for the following:

·        Proper foundation piers

·        Post attachment to piers

·        Post alignment and signs of rodents

·        Decay, pest damage

·        Girder spacing and support

·        Size, span and condition of joists

·        Bridging

·        Floor boards

·        Ledger attachment and flashing

·        Joist attachment

·        Cantilever

·        Hidden wiring or plumbing

·        Vegetation that was not removed

·        Debris or stored goods not removed

·        Ventilation, insulation and vapor barrier (if applicable)

Observation:  YES, the overhead door opener was tested and was operational, but it lacks modern electric eye sensors.

Analysis:  **** UNSAFE.  While the older garage door opener may be typical for a home of this age, it does not have an up-to-date external entrapment system that utilizes a fast enough response time to prevent personal injury.  “According to reports received by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), approximately 60 children between the ages of 2 and 14 have been trapped and killed under automatic garage doors since March 1982. This is approximately 4 such deaths per year. Other children have suffered brain damage or serious injuries when the closing door contacted them, and failed to stop and reverse its direction.”  As explained by the Consumer Products Safety Commission, Document #523: “Beginning in January 1993, all new garage door openers must be equipped with an electric eye, a door edge sensor, or any other device that provides equivalent protection. If an electric eye is used, it should be installed at a height of 4 to 6 inches above the floor.”

Recommendation:  I advise that you consider the optional updating of the garage door opener NOW, by installing electric eye sensors.  Consult an overhead door company for a cost estimate.

Resource: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/523.html

Observation:  A new replacement window is located in a hazardous location, such as above a tub fixture, near a swinging door or close to a floor.

Analysis:  Be advised that unless the glass is "safety tempered glass," the condition is unsafe as there is a potential for serious personal injury.  Each pane of glazing installed in hazardous locations should be provided with a manufacturer's or installer's label, designating the type and thickness of glass and the safety glazing standard with which it complies, which is visible in the final installation. The label should be acid etched, sandblasted, ceramic-fired, embossed mark, or should be of a type which once applied cannot be removed without being destroyed.  Further investigation is needed.

 Recommendation:  You should ask the builder or owner to certify that the glass is safety tempered glass.  If no such certification is provided or no labeling can be identified on the glass, then you should seek a cost estimate for urgent glass replacement.

Observation:  Inspection of the roof covering revealed areas of staining or dark streaks of discoloration – creating the appearance of a dirty roof.

Analysis:  In my opinion, the discoloration is a cosmetic problem and repair is optional.

 The streaks and discoloration are caused by airborne algae that forms on the surface of the roof shingles and should not be confused with soot, dirt or tree droppings.  Algae stains cause cosmetic discoloration of asphalt roof coverings, but do not cause any problems with the roof covering itself, nor reduce service life.  The algae growth may not be present below any of the metal flashings or fixtures on the roof (such as the chimney flashing or the plumbing vent pipe flashings), because each time it rains, the metal oxidizes and washes down the roof’s surface eliminating the algae.

(Note: On a wood roof the algae growth can lead to decay caused by increased moisture retention.  If applicable, maintenance cleaning & treatment are needed now and at five year intervals).

Recommendation:  If you wish to remove or reduce the amount of algae growth on the roof, there are options for present and future consideration.  If the roof is shaded by trees, you might consult a certified arborist and request a cost estimate for elected pruning or tree removals.  Increased sunlight and drying will retard the algae growth.

Algae growth on the roof can be temporarily removed or lightened by spraying a mild solution of bleach, trisodium phosphate and water on the roof with a garden sprayer of a power washer.  However, cleaning the roof is best left to a professional, as the granules or the shingles themselves may be dislodged by improper high pressure power washing – thereby reducing the life of the shingles.  For the do-it-yourselfer, solutions range from one cup TSP, one gallon bleach and four gallons of water, to one cup TSP and 2.5 gallons each of bleach and water.  The solution should be rinsed from the roof after 10 to 15 minutes.  Do not climb on the wet slippery roof, and do not scrub.  Scrubbing will loosen and remove granules.  After spraying, be sure to thoroughly flush the roof and the greenery around the home (grass, bushes and shrubs) with water.  The effectiveness of this type of cleaning may only be temporary, and the discoloration may recur.

Another option to keep the shingles free of algae is to install metal strips along the peak of the roof.  There are manufacturers who supply strips of zinc to be used on wood roofs to prevent algae and mold formation.  The zinc strips can be installed at the ridge of any existing or new roof, or nailed under existing high elevation shingles.  Rain water ionized by runoff from the zinc kills algae and mold.  The zinc strips can be installed by roofing contractors or can be purchased at the local building supply store or ordered online.  On-line resources include:

            www.chicago-metallic.com

            www.shingleshield.com

            www.zincshield.com/home.html

For your future consideration, roof shingle manufacturers have recognized that airborne algae has been spreading northward each year, resulting in consumer complaints.  Research performed by the manufacturers has shown that small bits of copper or zinc mixed in with the color granules produce new algae-resistant shingles.  They are specifically designed to inhibit algae growth for the life of the shingle and are backed by product warranties available to homeowners.  When the present roof covering needs age replacement, you should specify that the new shingles are algae-resistant.

Observation:  Inspection of the exterior paint on the old home revealed numerous deep minute cracks.

Analysis:  "The unsightly reptilian appearance of the paint indicates a problem called "alligatoring."  Alligatoring is an advanced case of crazing where the paint film fractures into myriad rectangles that resemble the skin of the reptile.  Alligatoring is common on old houses because it results from paint that has become brittle due to age.  The expansion and contraction of the wood underneath puts the paint under tremendous stress, and since the film is no longer elastic to move with the wood, it fractures repeatedly to relieve the stress – often down to bare wood.  Alligatoring is particularly prevalent and severe where there's thick paint buildup.  Many quick-and-dirty painters simply brush right over alligatoring, and while a speedy recoat won't obliterate the cracks, it will mask the problem – for a while anyway.  The problem is, as soon as the wood moves again in a few weeks, the cracks will return in the same locations, this time even deeper due to the additional coat of paint.  Filling the cracks is also only cosmetic and does not prevent the alligatoring from reoccurring."

Recommendation:  You should consult a painter and request a cost estimate for the removal of the alligatoring paint down to bare wood by a proper method, such as chemical or mechanical stripping – taking care to observe lead paint precautions.  The removal of the old paint and the preparation of a bare surface will eliminate the alligatoring for good by creating a smoother surface for paint adhesion and elasticity. [1]

Observation:  The roof covering was 100% covered by SNOW at the time of inspection.

Analysis:  The true condition of the roof covering is undetermined as it was not readily accessible for inspection.  Further investigation is needed to determine if there are concealed defects.

Recommendation:  As I was unable to determine the condition of the roof, a professional roof inspection and certification are advised prior to the close of escrow.  The condition of the roof covering requires further research now and also during the first thaw.  You should ask the owner the following disclosure questions:

• What type(s) of roof covering(s) is present?

• How old is the roof covering(s)?

• When do you expect that age replacement will be needed?

• Does the roof leak?

• Are there any seasonal performance problems such as ice dams?

• Ask if the owner is willing to memorialize in writing that there are no problems with the roof covering.

     You should discuss the unknown condition of the roof covering with your attorney NOW, prior to commitment.  If the owner is not willing to provide assurance that there are no problems, then perhaps an agreed upon sum of money can be retained in escrow until inspection is possible.  Furthermore, you should visit the local building department and perform a “permit search” to determine the last date of roof covering replacement on file.  Be advised that roof coverings are NOT designed to last the life of the home.  All roof coverings eventually require age replacement at significant expense - such expenses should be budgeted.  (Note: Be advised that most 3-tab asphalt / fiberglass shingle roof coverings have a design life of 15-20 years, roll roofing design life = 8-10 years.)

     If you have great concerns or your research reveals suspicions of problems, you may want the home inspector to return and evaluate the roof when the roof is bare and weather permits.  A MINIMUM TRAVEL FEE AND MINIMUM HOURLY RATE WILL BE CHARGED.  Exact pricing and scheduling arrangements can be made by contacting this office. 

Observation:  Testing of the electrical outlets by random sampling (1 / room) revealed a condition known as “reversed polarity.” 

Analysis:  **** UNSAFE - The outlet in question is UNSAFE and should NOT be used until repaired as there is a risk of injury.  Reversed polarity is a common defect which means that the outlet was wired incorrectly and may allow the chassis of an appliance to be live when the appliance is off, or may damage the appliance or electronic device connected to the outlet.  Be informed that as the home inspector is not required to move furniture and stored goods, and not required to test all outlets, other electrical defects may exist that were not found during the home inspection.

Recommendation:  URGENT repair and further investigation are needed.  While repair is usually a simple matter of swapping the hot & neutral wires at the outlet, electrical repairs can pose shock hazards to the amateur; therefore, I advise that you hire a licensed electrician prior to commitment to reappraise the electrical system, including all outlets and to repair all such outlets found with defective wiring.  All repairs should be done in accordance with the requirements of the electrical code.

Observation:  Where readily accessible, I observed breaches in “firestops” where the metal flue passes from floor to floor to the roof.

Analysis:  **** UNSAFE.  With a mechanical firebox, a firestop must be installed at each ceiling level where the flue passes on its way to the roof. Firestops work the same way fire- blocking does to prevent fire from traveling from floor to floor, as in balloon framing. Specialty subcontractors often install fireboxes and firestops, and sometimes the installation goes into an opening that was not properly framed. Instead of calling for the framer to reframe the opening, which would cost the fireplace installer and the framer time and money, the sub often completes the installation anyway, thinking that unless there is a fire, no one is likely to ever know of the improper installation. Gaps in firestops are a definite life safety issue.  URGENT repair is needed.

Recommendation:  You should hire a contractor to correct this safety problem NOW, in accordance with the requirements of the building code.

Observation:  As seen within the gas fireplace, the gas line is not sealed where it penetrates the firebox.

Analysis:  **** UNSAFE.  Mechanical fireboxes are very common in residential construction. An unsealed gas line penetration at the mechanical firebox is unsafe because fire that is supposed to be contained within the mechanical firebox could spread to the wood framing behind or adjacent to the box.  URGENT safety repair is needed.

Recommendation:  Prior to using the gas fireplace, you should hire a contractor to apply fireproof grout to seal around the pipe penetration.

 
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